Pure-Castile Soap 64oz, 2-Pack + Pump

One pump, not one per bottle. It fits either of the two 64 fl oz bottles, so most people keep it on the bottle in use and store the other sealed.

It is for people who already know their own rate. Because the soap is concentrated, one bottle lasts a long time, so a multi-pack is about not reordering rather than about running out. If this is your first bottle, buy the single and see how far it goes.

Yes. This is a concentrate, 2-3 times stronger than ordinary liquid soap, and it is meant to be mixed with water rather than poured neat. The label carries nine dilution recipes, from half a cup of soap to half a cup of water for body wash, down to a quarter teaspoon in a bowl of water for washing produce. Pouring it undiluted is the most common mistake and the usual reason people think it does not lather.

Because it is what turns oil into soap, and none of it is left in the bottle. Every true liquid soap ever made needs an alkali to saponify the oils. Potassium hydroxide reacts with the plant oils and is entirely consumed in that reaction, which is why our label states that none remains after saponifying the oils into soap and glycerin. A soap made without it would not be soap.

It appears on the ingredient list because regulations require the inputs to be declared, not because it is present in the finished product.

Nothing much. It is unscented, with no added fragrance and no essential oils. What you can smell is the oils it is made from. If you want it scented, add a few drops of your own essential oil once it is diluted.

No, and it is a good sign rather than a bad one. The soap is made from organic plant oils, and olive oil in particular shifts in color from one pressing to the next depending on the season and the harvest. That carries through into the finished soap, so bottles range from nearly clear to a light golden or amber.

A product made to look identical every time is usually one with colorants added. There are no synthetic dyes in ours, so what you see is the oils.

It is made with an organic blend of plant oils, is hypoallergenic and non-pore-clogging, and contains no artificial detergents, synthetic dyes or foaming agents. Dilute it properly and patch test first if your skin reacts easily. For external use only. Discontinue use if irritation, redness or discomfort occurs.

Yes. Mixed with water it foams readily, and at the right dilution the lather is creamy and dense. What it does not have is synthetic foam boosters, so it will not pile up like a commercial body wash, and the texture is creamier rather than airy.

If yours is not lathering, the usual causes are using it neat, which is too thick to lather well, or hard water, where minerals react with the soap. Dilute it properly and use purified water and the foam comes back.

No. Our Nature's Gold Collection is the first castile soap in the USA to carry third-party palm-oil-free certification from POFCAP, which means an independent body checked it rather than us saying so. It is also EWG Verified, Certified Vegan, Non-GMO and Certified Fair Trade, and never tested on animals.

Palm oil is worth checking for, because it appears in most liquid soap and often under an ingredient name that does not look like palm oil. If you are comparing us against another brand on this point, we wrote a side-by-side comparison with Dr. Bronner's that sets both ingredient lists next to each other.

Yes. The ingredients are plant-derived, with no artificial detergents, synthetic dyes or foaming agents, which is also why it is used for washing produce and for cleaning around the house.

Both are right, because timing is the whole difference. Never combine soap and vinegar in the same bottle: soap is alkaline, vinegar is acidic, and mixing them reverses the soap back toward its oils and leaves a curd that smears rather than cleans.

Using vinegar afterwards is a different thing entirely. In the shampoo and pet recipes it goes on after the soap has been rinsed out, as a separate acidic rinse that brings hair or fur back to its natural pH. Soap first, rinse it away, then vinegar. Never the two in one mixture.

Roughly one part soap to three parts water, which is much weaker than the half-and-half body wash recipe on the label.

Foaming pumps are built to aerate a thin liquid. The standard dilution is too thick for them and will clog the mechanism. Pour the water in first and the soap second, then turn the bottle end over end rather than shaking it hard.

Nothing went wrong. A soap and washing soda mixture thickens and gels as it cools, and how much depends on your water and the temperature of the room. It is the normal state of the recipe, not a failed batch.

Three things make it easier to live with. Store it in a wide-mouth container rather than a narrow bottle, so you can stir it instead of fighting to pour it. Shake or stir before every use, which the label asks for. And if it is still too stiff, add warm water a cup at a time until it pours, then use slightly more per load to compensate.

Use less. High-efficiency machines are built around low-foam detergent and small doses, and the half cup on the label assumes a conventional machine. Start at a quarter cup, or fill to your machine's line, whichever is less.

Less soap in an HE machine is not weaker washing. These machines use very little water, so a smaller dose reaches the same concentration. Too much creates suds the machine cannot rinse out. Check your manufacturer's guidance on non-commercial detergents as well.

Yes, pet shampoo is one of the nine uses on the label. Mix one cup of soap with one cup of purified water, massage it into the fur, and keep the soap out of their eyes and the water out of their ears. Check with your vet first for a pet with a skin condition.

Longer than the size suggests. Each bottle holds 64 fl oz, half a gallon or 1.9 liters, and because it is diluted before use a bottle stretches a great deal further than the same volume of ready-mixed soap. How long depends entirely on which of the nine uses you put it to.

Three years from opening, stored somewhere cool, dry and out of direct sunlight, with the cap closed tightly.

Anything you have diluted with water is different. Use a diluted mixture within two to three weeks. The concentrate is stable on its own, but adding water introduces microorganisms and there are no synthetic preservatives in this soap to hold them back. Mix small batches as you need them rather than diluting a whole bottle at once.

The soap is manufactured in the USA. Whole Naturals is operated by WNLS Inc.

We are the only authorized seller of Whole Naturals soap. We sell directly through this website and through our own accounts on the marketplaces we list on. We do not supply third-party resellers, so if a listing is sold by another business we cannot vouch for how the product has been stored or what is in the bottle.

If you are unsure about a particular listing, send us the link at alex@whole-naturals.com before you buy and we will tell you whether it is ours.

Yes. We supply retailers, makers and businesses directly, handled individually rather than through a fixed price list. Full details are on our wholesale page.

Email alex@whole-naturals.com with roughly what quantity you need, what you sell or make, and where you are based. That way the reply is an actual answer rather than a request for more information.